WWM has recently interviewed Mr Stephan Schneider about his work.
Here the result.
His SS12 collection can be found here at WW.
If you were not a fashion designer what you would be?
I often compare the work of a fashion designer to the one of a chef in a restaurant:
* select an exclusive quality of ingredients and respect them in the process of preparation
* offer a different menu but keep the level of taste stable
* keep the amount of tables limited and do not place them too close to each other
so if i ever stop fashion you can visit me in my restaurant!
You are well known for your signature weaving. how did it came about?
I don’t think of fashion as a status symbol but as garments with an emotion, a story and an atmosphere. to design most of the fabrics by myself is a way to keep my design language very personal and intimate. therefore every collection starts for me with the fabric story.
My designs are not loud and glamorous but I want my garments to be approached with basic human aspects like humor, curiosity and vanity.
I have no other choice than to design the fabrics by myself as I cannot find those fabrics.
All your clothes are produced locally. Why?
I try to eat local food, no chinese croissants or South American strawberries.
local production means daily communication to the sitching ladies and not having to make any compromises during the design process.
I use the same fabrics for men and ladies, pants and shirts, jackets and coats. I combine in one garment knit and woven, prints and jacquard…only local production allows me to do so.
What was your best collection so far.
I always like the latest i did the most. season after season I try to challenge myself to use a textile I have never used before or a color I dislike… the result of each collection still does surprise me and keeps me sharp.
Tell us why you live and work in Antwerp.
The antwerp designers are the only few in the world who build up internationally operating companies, but still keep on following their original signature from the very first moment they started their collection.
I am so not interested in fashion from the big brands of the luxurious industry. the only job of their designers is to leave a strong impression in the media in order to sell their licensed products like accessories and cosmetics. in this small city of antwerp i can work independently from sponsors or investors and work on my vision without having to make compromises in the design.
Tell us about your best experience as a teacher in Berlin.
i am proud that my graduates have developed their own signature during their four years of studies.last year two of my graduates, Mads Dinesen (www.madsdinesen.com) and Janosch Mallwitz (www.last-service.de) entered the Hyeres festival.
Julian Zigerli (www.julianzigerli.com) showed his graduation collection in Paris…in those moments I feel proud of my work as a teacher!
Which city, Antwerp or Berlin, influences you most?
living since more than 22 years in antwerp i am privileged to take part in the antwerp fashion phenomenon.
when I moved in 1990 to Antwerp to study fashion at the royal Academie of fine arts the antwerp designers were still underdogs in the international fashion business.
only after their first shows in paris the the early nineties Van Noten, Demeulemeester and Margiela became known to a wider audience. they served as a role model for the next generations of graduates from the Academie like me, to start a collection and present it in Paris.
I would like to motivate my graduates from the university of arts in Berlin to open the door of their ateliers and present their work internationally.
Berlin is authentic but not established which makes it so different from all other fashion capitals in the world.
in Berlin you don’t have to fight against any conservative players in the fashion establishment, but you have enough places to create your own position.
Any future plans you would like to share?
I am not so much interested into new projects. my definition of the term ‘quality’ is ‘continuation with passion’, therefore the continuation of my work is my most important plan for the future.
Thank you Stephan for the nice interview.
Have a great week!blog comments powered by Disqus